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Posted on: Jan 08, '15

 The Breitling Navitimer Watch

You'll notice that the are made from a mix of titanium (not surprising) and 18k gold (a bit surprising). The titanium is PVD treated for better color. It is all hand-polished and assembled of course. This is all under a bubbled section of the sapphire crystal and the watch height in total is 21.7mm thick. The case will be 47mm wide with both 18k white gold and Zalium (a Breitling alloy similar to titanium). You can see how the front and back pieces of the watch are white gold and sandwich the middle Zalium segment.

Inside the watch is their new caliber HW4501 that is manually wound with a 50 hour power reserve. The movement apparently requires 160 hours to build and assemble (each one) and is comprised of 345 parts. Indications on the dial are simple but interesting. You have a dedicated dial for the hours, one for the minutes, and a power reserve indicator. There is no dedicated seconds dial save for the hand on the tourbillon that is like a five minute seconds indicator. Though you can track the hand in 60 second increments if you are timing something.

Overall this is yet another cool, polarizing, and beautifully over-the-top high-end luxury timepiece which people like me love. Not that I dislike Patek Philippe at all, but if all we got were high-end watches that looked like Patek Philippe I would probably stop blogging about watches pretty fast. Breitling will produce just 20 pieces of the limited edition Navitimer watch, and once again it is the fourth piece out of a total of what will be five that will make up the Navitimer watch collection.

On the rear of the watch is more classic finishing and another view of the manually-wound movement. The caseback is not super exciting, but nonetheless nice. What you can't see is just how complex the movement it. In it are over 600 parts and it has two mainspring barrels. One of them is purely dedicated to the "animation" of the hands as they move around when the time changes. Power reserve is about 45 hours.

The Breitling Navitimer case is 46mm wide with a smooth technical look that some will love and others might find a bit staid given how wild Navitimer watches have been in the past. All the details are satisfying, but you just don't see too many round Navitimer pieces these days. I would suggest that it likely grows on you at the least.

Breitling will offer the Navitimer in 18k white gold. The middle section of the case is said to be made from Breitling's proprietary Zalium metal - a zirconium alloy. Some other versions of the Navitimer will have diamonds. What? It is Breitling we are talking about here... With 27 hands on the dial and a lot going on, this watch is sure to be someone's prized possession. I have to admit that it is very cool to use and I like that each new Navitimer watch from Breitling is not only interesting, but also unpredictable.


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